Ulundi

Ulundi, 105 km north of Eshowe along the R66, is at the heart of the Zulu Nation, with important burial grounds, the site of King Mpande's royal residence and grave, and the half-constructed kraal of Cetshwayo. Ulundi is currently co-capital (with Pietermaritzburg) of Kwazulu-Natal, and is constantly rumored to be about to take over as the province's administrative center, a role it seems ill-prepared to fill.

Pietermaritzburg, with its imposing colonial buildings and well-established infrastructure, is seen as a relic of the white past, while Ulundi, with its associations with the Zulu past, is seen as a better spiritual symbol of the Zulu Nation. However Ulundi doesn't have the hotels or even housing that would be required from a provincial capital and the civil service, at least, fervently opposes any such move.

There's only one hotel in town, catering mainly to shuttling civil servants and businessmen. But as there is little to see in town itself it is hard to find a good reason to stay there. Even the tourist information is not in town, but instead the area's main attraction, the KwaZulu Cultural Museum at Ondini.

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